El Retiro is where Madrid comes to breathe. These 125 hectares of gardens, avenues and fountains were once the private grounds of the Buen Retiro Palace, built for King Philip IV in the 17th century. They opened to everyone in 1868, and today the park is the city’s favourite place for a Sunday stroll.
What to see
The Great Pond
The Estanque Grande is the heart of the park. Hire a rowing boat and paddle in front of the colonnaded monument to Alfonso XII – a classic Madrid experience.
The Crystal Palace
Built of iron and glass in 1887, the Palacio de Cristal sits by a small lake and hosts free contemporary art exhibitions organised by the Reina Sofía Museum.
The rose garden and the Fallen Angel
The Rosaleda blooms in May and June. Nearby, the Fallen Angel fountain is one of the very few public statues of the devil in the world.
World Heritage
Since 2021 El Retiro and the Paseo del Prado form the UNESCO World Heritage site “Paseo del Prado and Buen Retiro, a landscape of Arts and Sciences”.
Tips
- Weekend mornings are lively, with musicians and puppet shows around the pond.
- In summer, come early or late: the midday heat is intense.
- Combine with the Prado Museum, a short walk away.
